Snakes

 

1. A suitable food source for the size of your snake.

It is illegal to provide live food in the UK. All food should be thoroughly defrosted overnight in warm water before feeding, and ideally warmed a little before being offered.  Different snakes have different taste buds, so try a variety of species.  Ensure food is of good quality. Day-old chicks no not provide a balanced diet.  Care must be taken with food hygiene to avoid food poisoning – for you and your pet!

2. A water source must be available and should be large enough for your snake to sit in, if desired.

Not all snakes will drink – the majority of their fluid intake comes from their prey – but they should have the facility to do so, if desired. Water soaks will also help with shedding. Water baths should be appropriate to species type (fresh water, brackish water etc.) – please contact us for more information on this.

3. Vivariums:

These should be large enough to provide a heat and humidity gradient. There should be space to allow your pet to move around, and they must have adequate ventilation.  Snakes are sometimes kept in drawer systems: whilst these may provide enough space for very young snakes, ventilation, heat and humidity are often compromised and these systems cannot be condoned as a long-term option.

Substrates vary widely and many are suitable, but please check any wood chips used are not toxic for your pet. For more information or to chat about options, please do not hesitate to contact us. Vivariums should be cleaned thoroughly with a quaternary ammonium compound on a regular basis.

4. Environmental enrichment:

Hides are essential for your pet to allow them to relax and feel secure.  Try to make the vivarium environment as close to the natural environment as possible. Sphagnum moss may be useful to help with shedding.

5. Heat

Heat must be supplied and thermometers fitted to ensure a correct gradient is maintained. Bulbs must be covered with a guard to prevent your pet from sustaining thermal burns.  Heated rocks can easily cause burns if not on a thermostat and may be best avoided.

A hot spot should be available at one end of the vivarium under the heat bulb, with the opposite end of the vivarium offering cooler climbs. Heat and light sources should be separate to allow heating without lighting the area over night. Not all species are blind to infra-red light.

6. Ultraviolet light should be provided.

Although some snakes have been proven to make their own calcium, research does not exist for all species and the role of ultraviolet light in snake health is largely unknown.  We fully corroborate natural environments wherever possible, which means exposing your pet to UV light. Bulbs should be replaced every 6 months and should be covered with a guard and a reflector to prevent thermal burns and damage to your eyes.  Bulbs should be of the correct intensity for your pet’s species environment, and must be placed at a position above your pet so that the beams shine down (like sunlight).

If the bulb is too close to your pet’s line of vision and shines into their eyes, blindness may eventually result – it would be like staring at the sun for a long period of time.

7. A humidity gradient must be maintained that is appropriate for your pet’s species.

Desert species need very little moisture whilst tropical species must not dry out.  Fitting hygrometers at both ends of the vivarium will allow monitoring of the gradient.  Sphagnum moss may be useful in providing an area of higher humidity – please contact us for more information.

8. Ventilation

This is absolutely essential for the health of any snake, and poor ventilation is frequently the cause of respiratory infection.  Ventilation is not, however, to be confused with air movement. Adding a fan to the room will not improve the ventilation, it will simply push contaminated air around the room!  A source of fresh air should be supplied without compromising the heat or humidity gradients – please contact us for more information.

9. Safety from predators, including your pets, at all times.

Never leave your dog or cat with your snake when unsupervised – although they may seem indifferent to each other, instinct is strong in predatory species.  It will only take one slip-up for your dog or cat to kill your snake, or in some cases, for your snake to eat your dog or cat!

10. Regular health care:

We recommend six monthly check-ups for all species to keep up-to-date with their general health.  Snakes will hide any signs of ill health until they cannot keep going any longer, so if you notice any change in your pet, please bring them for a check-up as soon as possible.

 

Lizards

1. A suitable food source for your lizard’s species:

Please check the nutritional requirements of your pet carefully or contact us for advice.  Juvenile lizards need more protein than adults and diets may change with age.  Adult Bearded Dragons should have a diet of over 85% vegetation, whilst younger individuals should have around 90% insects.  Green iguanas are strict vegetarians and feeding protein sources such as chicken and crab sticks can be extremely detrimental to their health.

Food should ideally be dispersed to encourage foraging, but please ensure any bowls used are cleaned thoroughly with a quaternary ammonium compound.

2. A supply of vitamins and minerals:

These should include calcium and may be given either by gut loading insects, dusting food, or providing powders in a bowl for your pet to lick. Ensure your pet does receive these supplements in one form or another to avoid profound ill health developing over time.

3. A water source must be available and should be large enough for your pet to sit in, if desired.

Not all lizards will drink – the majority of their fluid intake may come from their diet – but they should have the facility to do so, if desired. Water soaks will also help with shedding. Water baths should be appropriate to species type (fresh water, brackish water etc.) – please contact us for more information on this.  Arboreal species may drink from branches and may need regular spraying or a dripper system.

4. Vivariums or enclosures

These should be large enough to provide a heat and humidity gradient. There should be room to allow your pet to move around, and they must have adequate ventilation.  Substrates vary widely and many are suitable, but please check any wood chips used are not toxic for your pet. For more information or to chat about options, please do not hesitate to contact us. Housing areas should be cleaned thoroughly with a quaternary ammonium compound on a regular basis.  Arboreal species will need height as well as floor space.

5. Space to exercise:

Lizards are often very active individuals and may travel large distances on a daily basis in the wild, so exercise is extremely important.  If the vivarium is not large enough to allow exercise, provisions should be made for supervised exercise sessions in warm areas elsewhere on a daily basis.

6. Environmental enrichment:

Hides are essential for your pet to allow them to relax and feel secure.  Try to make the vivarium environment as close to the natural environment as possible. Sphagnum moss may be useful to help with shedding.

7. Heat must be supplied and thermometers fitted to ensure a correct gradient is maintained.

Bulbs must be covered with a guard to prevent your pet from sustaining thermal burns.  Heated rocks can easily cause burns if not on a thermostat and may be best avoided. If using heat mats, fit them in an appropriate place for the species (on the wall for arboreal species or on the floor for ground-dwellers) and ideally use thermostats.  A hot spot should be available at one end of the vivarium under the heat bulb, with the opposite end of the vivarium offering cooler climbs. Heat and light sources should be separate to allow heating without lighting the area over night. Not all species are blind to infra-red light.

8. Ultraviolet light should be provided for all species.

The role of ultraviolet light in reptile health is largely unknown, but it is essential in diurnal species to allow calcium uptake from the diet and production within the body.  We fully corroborate natural environments wherever possible. This means exposing your pet to UV light during the day, even if it is a nocturnal species. Bulbs should be replaced every 6 months and should be covered with a guard and a reflector to prevent thermal burns to your pet and damage to your eyes.  Bulbs should be of the correct intensity for your pet’s species environment, and should be separate from the heat source.

UV light should be available whilst your pet is eating and digesting (for diurnal species).  Bulbs must be placed at a position above your pet so that the beams shine down (like sunlight).  If the bulb is too close to your pet’s line of vision and shines into their eyes, blindness may eventually result – it would be like staring at the sun for a long period of time.

9. A humidity gradient must be maintained that is appropriate for your pet’s species.

Desert species need very little moisture whilst tropical species must not dry out.  Fitting hygrometers at both ends of the vivarium will allow monitoring of the gradient.  Sphagnum moss may be useful in providing an area of higher humidity – please contact us for more information.

10. Ventilation

This is absolutely essential for the health of any lizard, and poor ventilation is frequently the cause of respiratory infection.  Ventilation is not, however, to be confused with air movement. Adding a fan to the room will not improve the ventilation, it will simply push contaminated air around the room!  A source of fresh air should be supplied without compromising the heat or humidity gradients. Please contact us for more information.

11. Safety from predators, including your pets, at all times.

Never leave your dog or cat with your lizard when unsupervised: it will only take one slip-up for your dog or cat to kill a small lizard, and large species such as iguanas and monitors can inflict severe damage on your dog or cat!

12. Regular health care:

We recommend six monthly check-ups for all species to keep up-to-date with their general health.  Lizards hide any signs of ill health until they cannot keep going any longer, so if you notice any change in your pet, please bring them for a check-up as soon as possible.

 

Tortoises

1. A suitable food source for your tortoise’s species:

Please check the nutritional requirements of your pet carefully or contact us for advice.  Many tortoises are vegetarian and require very low levels of proteinaceous food in their diets. However, there are some species that may eat carrion.  Food should be dispersed over a wide area to encourage foraging. If bowls are used, please ensure that they are cleaned thoroughly with a quaternary ammonium compound.  As a guide, a [vegetarian] tortoise should eat a pile of grasses and weeds roughly the same size as its body each day.

2. A supply of vitamins and minerals:

This should include calcium, they may be given by dusting food with the supplement. Be aware that many tortoises will not eat the food if they see you applying them!  Some tortoises may lick vitamin blocks or eat grated (or whole) cuttlefish. Ensure your pet does receive these supplements in one form or another to avoid profound ill health developing over time.

3. A water source must be available:

Tortoises do need to drink on a regular basis!  Desert species require less water than tropical species, but water should be provided for all species.  In order to drink, a tortoise needs to be able to fully submerge its head in the water, so a bowl will not be adequate.  Tortoises should instead be bathed in hand hot water that comes up to the top of the first line of scutes (shell segments) from the floor, or to the top of the ‘skirt’.  The water must be deep enough to allow the head to be fully submerged, but shallow enough to allow your pet to lift its head from the water easily.

Baths should last for around 10-15 minutes, or until the water cools.  Your tortoise is likely to pass urates in the bath – this will happen once they are fully hydrated, so they should be removed from the bath at this time and not left to sit in contaminated water.  A permanent bath may be provided so long as a suitable ramp is in place to facilitate getting in and out – this must allow suitable grip for your pet.

4. Vivariums or enclosures:

These should be large enough to provide a heat and humidity gradient. There should be space to allow your pet to move around, and they must have adequate ventilation.  Substrates vary widely and many are suitable, but please check any wood chips used are not toxic for your pet. For more information or to chat about options, please do not hesitate to contact us. Housing areas should be cleaned thoroughly with a quaternary ammonium compound on a regular basis.  If a tortoise table is used, it is a good idea to provide a box area with a heat source inside – otherwise, heat will simply dissipate and your pet will be too cold on an almost permanent basis.

5. Space to exercise:

Tortoises can travel large distances on a daily basis in the wild depending on the species, so exercise is extremely important.  If the housing is not large enough to allow exercise, provisions should be made for supervised exercise sessions in warm areas elsewhere on a daily basis.

6. Environmental enrichment:

Hides are essential for your pet to allow them to relax and feel secure.  Try to make the vivarium environment as close to the natural environment as possible. Tortoises like to hide in grasses and thorn thickets that allow dappled light through naturally, so supplying handfuls of dried grasses can be a good idea.

7. Heat must be supplied and thermometers fitted to ensure a correct gradient is maintained:

Bulbs must be covered with a guard to prevent your pet from sustaining thermal burns. Tortoises will try to climb most things, so do not be fooled into thinking your tortoise will not be tall enough to touch the bulb!  Heated rocks can easily cause burns if not on a thermostat and may be best avoided. Heat mats can be ideal for tortoises and should be placed on the floor – these should be used with a thermostat.  A hot spot should be available at one end of the vivarium under the heat bulb, with the opposite end of the vivarium offering cooler climbs.

Heat and light sources should be separate to allow heating without lighting the area over night. Tortoises can see infra-red light so these bulbs are not appropriate.

8. Ultraviolet light:

This should be provided for all species because it is essential for calcium uptake from the diet and its production within the body.  It also plays a large part in maintaining health and happiness and speeding healing, although the mechanisms for these processes are unknown.  UV bulbs should be replaced every 6 months and should be covered with a guard and a reflector. This is to prevent thermal burns to your pet and damage to your eyes.  Bulbs should be of the correct intensity for your pet’s species environment, and should be separate from the heat source.

UV light must be available whilst your pet is eating and digesting (for diurnal species), and must be placed at a position above your pet so that the beams shine down (like sunlight).  If the bulb is too close to your pet’s line of vision and shines into their eyes, blindness may eventually result – it would be like staring at the sun for a long period of time.

9. A humidity gradient must be maintained that is appropriate for your pet’s species:

Desert species need very little moisture whilst tropical species must not dry out.  Fitting hygrometers at both ends of the enclosure will allow monitoring of the gradient.  Sphagnum moss may be useful in providing an area of higher humidity if required – please contact us for more information.  Prolonged periods of high humidity with poor ventilation can cause chronic pneumonia in these species, so regular air movement is also essential.

10. Ventilation

This is absolutely essential for your tortoise’s health, and poor ventilation is frequently the cause of respiratory infection.  Ventilation is not, however, to be confused with air movement. Adding a fan to the room will not improve the ventilation, it will simply push contaminated air around the room!  A source of fresh air should be supplied without compromising the heat or humidity gradients, and without causing a draft to flow over your pet – please contact us for more information.

11. Safety from predators, including your pets, at all times.

Never leave your dog or cat with your tortoise when unsupervised. Dogs in particular often view tortoises as a chewy toy or moving bone, and it only takes one lapse in attention for your dog to inflict often life-threatening injuries or even eat a tortoise completely.  Even dogs that have ignored tortoises for years may slip up and chew your tortoise – it is a natural behaviour so the responsibility for vigilance lies with you, the owner!

12. Regular health care:

We recommend six monthly check-ups for all species to keep up-to-date with their general health.  Tortoises take a long time to demonstrate any signs of ill health, but by the time that they do, damage has frequently already been done.  The recovery period is even slower, so if you notice any change in your pet, please bring them for a check-up as soon as possible.

 

Terrapins and turtles

1. A suitable food source for your pet’s species.

Please check the nutritional requirements of your pet carefully or contact us for advice.  Diets should be varied: feeding prawns every day is both a nutritionally deficient diet in many cases and also provides too much fat.  Terrapins and turtles often have specific taste preferences, so try to provide as many natural foods that would be available to that species in the wild as you can.  Providing a good quality diet is provided, supplements should not be required in these species.

2. Water quality must be kept at a high level for these species, which means regular water quality testing should be performed.

Ensure that you provide the correct water type for your species – salt water turtles will not survive in fresh water for long and vice versa.  Water sources should be well oxygenated and kept clean from food debris.  It is a good idea to feed your terrapin or turtle in a separate container to the living space if possible. This so that the permanent water source remains clean and the feeding tank can be thoroughly cleaned. If this is not possible, ensure that your pet is not over-fed – surplus food will start to degrade and bacteria and fungi will accumulate in the water.

3. Space to exercise:

Turtles and terrapins can travel large distances on a daily basis in the wild depending on the species, so exercise is extremely important.  They should have plenty of space to swim. If the housing is not large enough to allow exercise, provisions should be made for supervised exercise sessions in warm areas elsewhere on a daily basis.

4. Environmental enrichment:

Hides are essential for your pet to allow them to relax and feel secure.  Try to make the vivarium environment as close to the natural environment as possible. Tortoises like to hide in grasses and thorn thickets that allow dappled light through naturally, so supplying handfuls of dried grasses can be a good idea.

5. Heating

This should be provided to the water for those species that need a warmer water climate. A water-safe thermometer should be used to ensure the temperature is constant.  A dry area should be provided that your tortoise or terrapin can easily access via a ramp, and this area should be heated with a heat bulb so that your pet can bask.  Bulbs should be covered with a guard to prevent your pet from sustaining thermal burns. Pay particular care to ensure that and any wires are well away from any water sources. Heat mats and other supplementary heating items should not be used.  Heat and light sources should be separate to allow heating without lighting the area over night.

6. Ultraviolet light

This should be provided for all species and tank lighting is readily available from many pet shops.  UV bulbs should be replaced every 6 months.  UV light must be available whilst your pet is eating and digesting but should be turned off over night.

7. Safety from predators, including your pets, at all times.

Never leave your pet open to attacks from a dog or cat that decides to go fishing!  Tanks should be secure at all times, including the basking area.

8. Regular health care:

We recommend six monthly check-ups for all species to keep up-to-date with their general health.  If you notice any change in your pet, please bring them for a check-up as soon as possible.