We cater for birds of all shapes and sizes at Skylark Vets – there is no feather that goes unappreciated! Birds are both numerous and extremely varied in their sizes, shapes and colours. The requirements for each species will depend on where it originates from, so there is no ‘one-size-fits-all’ for these animals.

Songbirds are usually relatively small but with some exceptions. These birds have very high metabolic rates and produce some of the world’s most beautiful sounds. They need diets that are high-calorie, to support all the flying they naturally do. However, their activity levels are frequently much reduced in captivity, so obesity can be a real problem.

Parrot species that range widely from small budgerigars and cockatiels to African grey parrots, Amazon parrots, and blue and gold macaws. Again, the species vary widely according to geographic environment. These birds have very strong beaks, and are designed to live on fruits, nuts and scavenged foods. Like passerines, obesity can be a problem in captivity. However, lack of calcium causing seizures is very common, as is with heart disease.

Birds of prey also come in an array of shapes and sizes, and are finely adapted to exploit their niche environment. From fish-hunting eagles to tiny hobbies that take insects on the wing, these birds have finely honed physical adaptations that make them extremely efficient hunters. They no not require a lot of exercise comparatively, but can struggle with foot health in captivity.

If you have or are thinking of keeping a bird, bear in mind that they are born to fly free – not to be kept in a cage for most of their life. Birds are extremely intelligent and require constant mental stimulation. They will need access to ultraviolet light (UV) – either the sun or an avian UV bulb – several hours a day (see below). Their diets (insert link to avian diets) should be matched to their species requirements. Frequent exercise is needed for most species, involving both flight and climbing facilities. This can be in your home or in a large aviary, but not just around a cage.

Essentials of keeping birds

1. A balanced diet complete with vitamins and minerals is essential for your pet’s health and wellbeing.

There are many types of commercial diet available and a suitable food should be used for the life stage of the bird, taking into account whether they are a breeding bird (these birds will require additional nutrients) and the exercise regime. Pelleted diets are preferable to seed based diets because selective feeding is not possible with a pellet. However, a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables should be offered in addition to pellets or seeds. Many parrot species are prone to weight-gain and heart disease. It is therefore essential to limit food and treats that are high in fat (such as sunflower seeds and peanuts). We recommend no more than a few sunflower seeds per day and peanuts nor more than 2-3 times per week. We recommend offering a range of natural foods, ideally spread around the aviary or enclosure at different levels to encourage foraging behaviour, or enclosed in foraging toys to increase the difficulty and reduce boredom. This should replace a portion of the commercial mixes. The type of fresh food will vary depending on the species of parrot and the country of origin, so please check carefully before offering foods, and contact us if you have any queries. In general, safe fruit and vegetables include: peas, squash, watercress, spinach and broccoli in small quantities, peppers, sweetcorn, blueberries, grapes, oranges, apples, melon, various lettuce types and herbs etc. Avoid avocados, garlic and chocolate: these are toxic to many animals, including birds.

Smaller birds can be extremely susceptible to toxins stored in the seeds and skins of fresh foods. Please wash all fresh items thoroughly and use organic produce where possible. Avoid feeding the stones of stone fruits such as cherries – these may contain cyanide toxins.

Food bowls must be kept clean between meals to prevent build-up of bacteria and moulds that can be detrimental to your pet’s health. Ensure that the bowls are both cleaned and disinfected every day. (We recommend F10 disinfectant). Food may be scattered at different levels around the enclosure to encourage foraging behaviour. This is recommended but again, environments must be thoroughly cleaned to prevent the build-up of harmful pathogens and to discourage pests such as rodents. Fresh foods should be removed after 12 hours.

2. Clean, fresh water must be available at all times.

Ensure that the bowl or feeder is cleaned every day to avoid build-up of debris, bacteria and algae. Some birds may prefer water that has been left out for 24 hours to remove fluoride if using tap water.

3. Enclosures should be made from safe materials that are specifically designed for birds.

Avoid metals which contain zinc (usually contained within galvanized wires) copper or lead, as these are highly toxic to birds. Stainless steel is considered to be safer but there are several companies specializing in parrot-safe cages, so it is best to buy from these. You should also ensure that the bars of the enclosure are spaced in such a way that your bird can’t trap their feet or other parts of the body, causing injury. Enclosures should be placed in a well-ventilated, non-draughty area, in a separate air space from cooking fumes and smoke. Hot oils, cooking smoke, candles smoke, Teflon and cigarette smoke are extremely dangerous to birds’ delicate respiratory systems, and many of these can cause death in as little as 24 hours.
Parrot species are highly sociable and will be happiest in an area where they are surrounded by family (such as the living room). However, the enclosures should be placed so that there is complete shelter on at least one side and birds are able to see approaching people – in this way, they can both hide but are not constantly experiencing a shock when somebody walks around the corner! Cages may be placed near windows but should be away from draughts and have shelter from direct sunlight.

4. Parrots produce a large volume of feather dust, with some species producing more than others.

All species should be bathed or sprayed on a daily basis with water at room temperature or a little warmer. Only plain water should be used, and bath times should be carried out during the warmest part of the day if birds are outdoors.

5. Clean, fresh bedding that is kept in small quantities in a dry, contained location (to prevent moulds building up) should be provided and must be cleaned and replaced on a daily basis.

Floor areas should be thoroughly cleaned every day and disinfected at least twice a week but ideally every day.

6. Environmental enrichment is essential in these species.

Some birds can display aggressive behaviour towards each other when bored and can inflict real damage. Food may be placed at various points around the aviary or enclosure to provide enrichment and to reduce competition. Bundles of weeds and grasses (if appropriate) may be tied together and suspended to provide edible toys. Toys should be provided – ensure that these are designed for parrots, as parrots can be extremely destructive, potentially causing themselves injury on broken toys. Toys should be rotated on a weekly basis to prevent boredom. Plenty of different hiding places and perches should be provided to avoid competition and provide a safe area. Perches should be of a variety of sizes, shapes and materials to allow different parts of the feet to be used at different times, preventing foot sores and ulcers from developing. When using wooden perches, ensure that these are from non-toxic trees that have not been treated with pesticides. Toxic or unsafe trees include Box Elder, Holly, Hemlock, Cherry, Apricot, Oak, Redwood and Yew. Natural wood perches are better than shop-bought, uniform perches because they allow more exercise for the feet as well as a material to chew.

7. Space to exercise: birds were not made to be captive – they were made to fly, and this is both an essential part of their defence mechanism as well as integral to psychological and physical health.

Minimum space requirements as specified by European law are that each bird should have space to perch, and to stretch to its full length or height in all directions. In reality, this is nowhere near enough space! Enclosures should be as large as space allows, both as floor space and in height to allow short flights. Birds which do not have access to a large aviary must have daily exercise within a bird-safe room indoors. You should bear in mind that these birds can be very destructive and create hazards for themselves! Ensure that all hazards such as electrical wires, appliances and equipment are kept away from your bird’s exercise environment. Other indoor hazards include toxic fumes, lead paint, air fresheners and scented candles.

8. A comfortable environmental temperature should be maintained.

The body temperature of a bird is much higher than of a mammal, and feathers provide excellent insulation. However, as many parrot species originate from countries close to the equator, they may not be able to withstand our UK winters without supplementary heating if in an outdoor aviary. Plenty of additional nesting materials should be provided for outdoor birds (that must be kept clean and dry), and heated boxes are an ideal way of maintaining temperatures in small areas rather than heating the entire aviary.

9. Ultraviolet light is essential for all birds

UV allows up-take and use of dietary calcium, which cannot occur in the absence of UV light. It is particularly important for laying birds. All birds are capable of seeing UVA light, and without it are essentially colour-blind, which can impair their mental well-being – leading to behavioural problems. Birds also use UVB by converting Vitamin D into Vitamin D3, which then aids the absorption of calcium. Calcium plays a vital role in nerve and muscle function, so we recommend that you also provide a source of calcium such as cuttlefish bones. There are also a number of powder supplements on the market which can be added to food. We recommend Nutrobal as a good all-round supplement for birds.

The easiest way to provide ultra-violet lighting is to move your bird enclosure outside for a few hours on sunny days (be careful to avoid extreme temperatures, so that your birds do not over-heat or get too cold). On cooler or dreary days, an avian UV bulb should be provided for a minimum of 6-8 hours per day. Light must be shone from above the birds rather than from the side, and should coincide with normal daylight hours. UVB rays can’t penetrate glass, so a sunny window will unfortunately not suffice. A bird-specific UV lamp should be provided for indoor birds – do not use a lamp that is designed for reptiles or fish, as these can cause seizures in birds.

10. Ventilation is essential for your pet’s health:

Poor ventilation in the housing is frequently the cause of respiratory infection both for indoor and aviary birds. Ventilation should not be confused with air movement! A source of fresh air should be supplied without compromising the ambient temperature, and without causing a draft to flow over your pet – please contact us for more information.
11. Birds should be protected from predators at all times, including any pets you may have!
This can be challenging when birds are flying indoors, so please keep them in a separate room during exercise sessions. It is imperative not to clip any wing feathers: flight is the only mechanism of defence available to birds and to remove this option causes an extreme level of stress. We strongly discourage clipping of wing feathers for this reason. However, pleas ensure that windows and doors are closed during flight times to prevent escape of your pet!
If using an outdoor aviary, birds should be protected from pests such as rodents and mites, which cause significant clinical disease as well as physical injury. Enclosures should be designed to minimise ease of access, and remaining food in bowls should be removed every day to discourage scavengers or kept out of reach of them. Hanging containers can be good options to prevent rodents and still allow birds to feed. Fresh branches should not be sourced in spring or autumn as these are more likely to have associated mites. If they are, branches should be thoroughly scrubbed (with a brush), cleaned with F10 and allowed to stand for several days before being used in the aviary.